“Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.”
Yesterday we moved up the road to San Elijo State Beach. San Elijo sits between two of the most iconic surf areas in California (Swamis and Cardiff Reef). So when in Rome … surf!
I struggle with so many things about surfing. I’m not consistent or talented, it scares me, it challenges me mentally and physically, and I need to be aware and accountable when in a lineup. Unlike other sports where amateurs get “a pass” or people just talk behind their back, when you surf you need to have some clue about what is going on for everyone’s safety.
But I keep doing it because when I get out there I have fun (after I catch the first wave), I never regret going out, and I feel accomplishment from addressing my fear.
The test for me to continue doing something is how I feel when I’m actually doing it and how I feel after doing it. I can’t trust my feelings before I do something. I rarely think I want to surf or I want to surf but I’m afraid because of any numbers of reasons like wave height, conditions, reefs, sharks, surfers, lack of surfers etc. If I let those feelings determine my actions I would spend a lot of time sitting on the couch (or the beach). It’s amazing what happens when I just do something rather than over think or ignore taking action because I’m afraid; my mood improves, my brain is clearer, and I feel better overall.
So I’m surfing (and sore)!